Beautiful Lake Bunyoni

Itambira island, Lake Bunyoni Uganda July 14, 2024 Lake Bunyoni is considered the prettiest lake in Uganda and with good reason. I chose to stay on a small island called Itambira, at a place called Seeds of Hope. I especially appreciated the idea that all proceeds go toward helping the local community. Another boda boda … More Beautiful Lake Bunyoni

Rough and Ready

Kisoro, Uganda July 12, 2024 The land border from Rwanda to Uganda was curiously hassle-free. An open-fronted building with two rooms is the immigration for both countries. I stepped into one room to be stamped out and trooped into the next to be stamped in. The haggling over changing money completed, I bounced on the … More Rough and Ready

To the Local Beat

Red Rocks, Musanze, Rwanda July 10, 2024 Started almost twenty years ago in response to tourist interest in local village life, Red Rocks is a place that works with local communities. Students, young and old from the community come to learn to paint. Local women showcase their arts and crafts and exhibit traditional activities such … More To the Local Beat

Bursting with Flavor

Gisenyi, Rwanda July 9, 2024 At the northern end of Lake Kivu is Gisenyi. A small town whose chief importance is the proximity to the DRC. Goma is literally across the street past  immigration but given the current problems in eastern DRC, it does not see much traffic now. Broad tree-lined streets see hardly any … More Bursting with Flavor

On Lake Kivu

Kibuye, Rwanda July 6, 2024 One of the largest freshwater lakes in Africa, Lake Kivu is shared by Rwanda and the DRC. Pretty though it is, the Rwandan shores at some spots are dotted with hotels and resorts and are incorrigible tourist traps. A strip of sand barely a foot wide is the “beach” at … More On Lake Kivu

Over Hill and Dale

Rural Rwanda July 4, 2024 I headed to the bus station through the snarl of traffic and was instantly engulfed in chaos. Buses, minivans, moto taxis, private cars, people vending food and touts swarmed around the place. It was far removed from the spic and span streets of town. I am headed to Kibuye, on … More Over Hill and Dale

On the Coast

Benguela, Angola June 25, 2024 On the shores of the Atlantic, Benguela wears a tropical air. With it straight palm-lined streets, houses with tiled roofs and colonial architecture, it feels familiar and akin to so many locales around the world. The grandest buildings are the governor’s palace and a domed one that is now the … More On the Coast