Auld Lang Syne

Dogubayazit, Turkey Aug 17, 2018 Five years ago, when I was traveling through south-eastern Anatolia, I had stopped in Dogubayazit, the last town in eastern Turkey. In the few days spent there, I had stayed in a hostel called Otel Tahran. It was owned by Bilal and it was his friend Mustafa, who had shown … More Auld Lang Syne

The Ghost of Ani

Kars, Turkey Aug 15, 2018 On a wind-swept plateau bounded by the deep gorge of the Akhurian river on one side, is the site of Ani. Begun in 961 AD, it flourished between the 10th and 11th century as the capital of the Bagratid kingdom of Armenia. Its position on lucrative trade routes ensured that … More The Ghost of Ani

Skippable Sevan

Dilijan, Armenia Aug 4, 2018 “What are you writing?” he asked, not that I understood the words, but miming leaves little room for misunderstanding. “About Armenia” I answered, “and where to go next” I mimed in reply. “What about Sevan?” he asked. So started our stuttering conversation at the little café where I sat scribbling … More Skippable Sevan

Tales of Tatev

Tatev, Armenia Jul 30, 2018 An aerial cablecar swings over two gorges between the town of Halidzor and Tatev in south-eastern Armenia, its destination, the Tatev monastery. Down below is the zigzag ribbon of the road down one slope and up the next, across the Devil’s bridge that spans the narrow chasm. Built in the … More Tales of Tatev

Cave Dwellings

Jul 27, 2018 Goris, Armenia Probably settled during Stone age, Goris first surfaces in 8th century BC as a region conquered by Rusa I of the Urartu kingdom. Through the march of history it is has had many names under many rulers – Goristsa changed to Kores which morphed to Goris. Present-day Goris though is … More Cave Dwellings

Quaint Goris

Goris, Armenia 1385 m Jul 26, 2018 Where laundry flaps between a jumble of power lines, over a communal kitchen garden. Where hitching a ride might mean sharing space with a sheep headed to the butcher’s. Where mouthwatering fruits and vegetables from the nearby farms jostle for space at the grocer’s and sunflower seeds are … More Quaint Goris