Where the Extraordinary is the Norm

Peshawar, Pakistan June 22, 2019 Close to the border with Afghanistan, the city of Peshawar has had a checkered history in its long life. And it shows. The old clock tower and the fire brigade station date from the British days but there are plenty that are yet older. The sprawling quadrangle that was once … More Where the Extraordinary is the Norm

Pathan Hospitality

Takht-i-Bahi June 18, 2019 Insatiably addicted to ancient archeological sites that I am, the ruins of Takht-i-Bahi was on the dream list. In chatting with another traveler at the guesthouse in Islamabad, I found Hannes too was headed there and had been invited by a friend to stay with his family. A couple of quick … More Pathan Hospitality

Under the Radar

Sukkur, Pakistan June 4, 2019 The police escort continued to dog me even as I was leaving Larkana. Perched on the back of a police motorbike, I was taken to the van. The policeman dutifully took photos of the driver, the license plate and the license. The van may have seen better days but like … More Under the Radar

Mound of the Dead

Larkana, Pakistan June 2, 2019 As a schoolgirl, I remember studying about the Indus Valley Civilization and of Mohenjo Daro in particular, which is Sindhi for Mound of the Dead. I remember seeing photographs of the bearded priest-king, of the many seals that were found at the site, the terracotta toys of bullock carts. Utterly … More Mound of the Dead