Kigali, Rwanda
July 2, 2024
Re-inventing itself after the horrific genocide of 1990s, Rwanda markets itself as the Land of a Thousand Hills and the name seems apt. Set at an average of 1500 m above sea level, the capital Kigali is spread out over hills and dale as far as the eye can see.
The aid that flowed in after the botched help from the UN and foreign governments has been put to good use. There are broad streets, surprisingly clean – at least in town where the tourists visit. Roundabouts and one-way streets ensure traffic flows smoothly and most drivers are law-abiding. In fact, Kigali consistently ranks among the safest cities in Africa, by African standards. I can feel that and have been blithely wandering around taking photos, chatting with people and in general reveling in not having to be on alert every second.
There are cars, although not that many. A large local bus station is clean as well with orderly line of buses. Huh, who knew?! Ride hailing apps such as Uber or Yango or Bolt do not work here. Instead, moto-taxis are the norm. But these are licensed, with the drivers required to carry helmets for their passengers and passengers required to don them. It is all strictly regulated. There are plenty of other regulations as well. One reason for the safety in Kigali and Rwanda in general, is that the government keeps a firm hold on security issues. But in a welcome surprise, this is done via widespread community collaboration or so I am told. Amazing, although I wonder at the form of “collaboration”. Is this a gentler form of Big Brother watching you?
There are tall buildings in town – offices, malls, shopping complexes – mostly new, some still being built. In well-to-do suburbs are the homes of the rich. Here there are cafes, restaurants and bars that cater to the well-heeled tourists. At USD 1500 per permit for an hour of gorilla viewing, it is meant for those with deep pockets. And there are plenty of them traveling in package tours in safari vehicles. But not all that live here are that rich and I see some humble homes and neighborhoods as well.
Disdaining the supermarket, I head to the local market in town where I find piles of vegetables and an occasional flower shop. And I find smiles. The feeling is laid-back and the welcome seems genuine.
I really should not be surprised. It began with the online visa application that said it required 7 days for completion. But within 24 hours of applying, I had an email message that welcomed me to the land of a thousand hills and a million smiles. But change is in the air; in the fairly new tourist industry, another contender is coming soon. The paper placemat at a popular café proudly advertises Medical Tourism.
ITCHY FEET TRAVELS 