The Golden Age

Vardzia, Georgia Jun 29, 2018 Tamar is a name shared by many women and girls in Georgia, all of them named after Queen Tamar of Georgia’s golden age. The unification of rival tribes and expansion of territories that began with David the Builder, culminated into Georgia’s greatest years during the reign of his great-granddaughter. Although … More The Golden Age

Snapshot of Sighnaghi

Sighnaghi, Georgia Jun 21, 2018 High above the Alazani valley, looking north to the Caucasian foothills is a hill with multiple ridges, and the small town atop is Sighnaghi. The surrounding areas have roots that go back three or four millenia, as shown by the finds in kurgans. Settled since Paleolithic times, bronze-age pottery, ornaments, … More Snapshot of Sighnaghi

My Dom, You Dom

Kish, Azerbaijan Jun 18, 2018 “Bir kilo, bir manat” she said, pointing to the tomatoes in her bulging shopping bag. “Chok fazla yok? I asked butchering Turkish in what has become the norm for me these past weeks. “Bu yaksha?” I continued, asking if this was a good price. “Bale, bale” she replied, but she … More My Dom, You Dom

Sights of Sheki

Sheki, Azerbaijan Jun 16, 2018 Sheki’s modern life began with Haji Chalabi Khan’s revolt against the Safavid Empire in the eighteenth century. It was here that he built his fort, palaces and numerous other buildings and it continued as the capital of the khanate for a couple of generations. A flourishing town, grown rich with … More Sights of Sheki

Graffiti of Qobustan

Qobustan, Azerbaijan Jun 9, 2018 Some forty kilometers southwest of Baku is a desolate place called Qobustan. Oil oozes from the soil in dark splotches and methane gas emerging through vents makes the mud “bubble”, forming what are called mud volcanoes. But Qobustan has another more important claim to fame. Across a flat plain from … More Graffiti of Qobustan

Facets of Baku

Baku, Azerbaijan Jun 7, 2018 Coming from Tbilisi to Baku, the strange mix of graceful buildings in the architectural style of nineteenth century, mixed in with ultra-modern chrome and glass in bizarre shapes, makes it feel like a different planet. The area near the Old Town has been spruced up to within an inch of … More Facets of Baku