Shades of Separation

Mpumalanga district, South Africa August 20, 2016 “How should I put it?” said the owner of a guesthouse in Graskop. I had asked her about the minibus combi to Nelspruit. She started out saying how they weren’t ‘official’, followed by a long winded explanation of how they lacked ‘papers’. She took pains to explain that … More Shades of Separation

Bland River Canyon

Graskop, South Africa, August 18, 2016 The tarmac road winds through the highveld with vast stretches of woodland on either side. But these are not old growth forests, nor are they natural woods. Stretching across the rounded tops of the shallow hills and across valleys, these are pine plantations, entirely manmade solely for the purpose … More Bland River Canyon

Hackles at Half Mast

May 22, 2016 Johannesburg, South Africa Recent history going back at least a couple of decades and possibly longer has always painted Johannesburg in shades of danger. I remember conversations with other travelers from more than a decade ago of how nobody stops at traffic lights because they would be shot at. Of how muggings … More Hackles at Half Mast