Borsippa or Birs Nimrud, Iraq May 31, 2023 I had read of the ruins of ancient Borsippa, a sister city of the more famous Babylon. It is close to the town of Al Hillah and of course was eager to go there. Abu Mustafa, the taxi driver who had helped me find a hotel in … More Ziggurat of Nabu
Kerbala, Iraq May 30, 2023 The name of the city is odd mix of the Babylonian word for a prayer room – kerb and Aramaic for God – El, thus Kerbala is God’s prayer room. Being the home of the shrine of Imam Hussain, it is one of the two major sites for Shia pilgrims … More Temple of God
Samarra, Iraq May 29,2023 The name Samarra immediately brings to mind an ancient Mesopotamian tale that was retold by W. Somerset Maugham. The tale goes: There was a merchant in Baghdad who sent his servant to the market. The servant came back trembling with fear because he said he had bumped into Death at … More Appointment in Samarra
Baghdad, Iraq May 28, 2023 The Shahbandar Café at a corner of Mutanaby street has been the Baghdad’s intellectual hub for a century and it remains a much loved and frequented café. Traditional cushioned benches have tiny tables in front for the tulip-shaped glasses of tea. The walls are lined with photographs, each more … More Baghdad of Yore
Baghdad, Iraq May 27, 2023 Al Rasheed street is the oldest street in Baghdad. In between modern concrete and glass are older buildings in a sad state of disrepair but they have a grace that the modern ones lack. I field hellos and “welcome to Iraq” as I walk along, heading toward the markets. In … More The Streets of Baghdad
Baghdad, Iraq May 25, 2023 Arrival in Baghdad was strangely anticlimactic. I knew about the visa on arrival but had expected to be asked for several documents but apparently none were needed. A single form, in English no less, was duly filed out. It disappeared into the back room with the passport and not half … More In the Land Between Two Rivers
New York May 24, 2023 Given my abiding passion for ancient civilizations, it is no surprise that I long wanted to visit the ruins of Mesopotamia. And that means Iraq for the most part. For many years it is a strictly no-go region and it is only fairly recently that it has opened up … More Dream of a Lifetime
ITCHY FEET TRAVELS 