Luanda, Angola June 30, 2024 By most lists and statistics, Luanda consistently ranks among the top ten most dangerous cities in Africa. Sometimes it even makes the top five list. So, it was with bag of common sense firmly in hand, hackles at attention and alarm bells ready to ring that I ventured forth. The … More On the Streets of the Big Bad City
Luanda, Angola June 28, 2024 Built on the highest point in the vicinity in 1576 CE is the Portuguese fortress of Saint Michael, meant to defend from marauding French, Spanish and Dutch. In its lifetime it has morphed from the original rectangular shape to its current polygon and has been a self-contained town to a … More Fortress of Sao Miguel
Benguela, Angola June 25, 2024 On the shores of the Atlantic, Benguela wears a tropical air. With it straight palm-lined streets, houses with tiled roofs and colonial architecture, it feels familiar and akin to so many locales around the world. The grandest buildings are the governor’s palace and a domed one that is now the … More On the Coast
Huila Province, Angola June 24, 2024 I’d thought the bus from Lubango to Benguela would take the road down to Namibe and then follow the coast. I was wrong and delighted to be so. Taking an inland route, the bus headed north through the highlands of Huila before turning to the coast. We were going … More Where Baobabs Stand Tall
Lubango, Angola June 21, 2024 In my random wanderings around town, I had met Franklin, who works at the TAAG office in central Lubango. He spoke excellent English and was a fount of information to boot. There is no public transport to places out of town and it was he who suggested a friend who … More High Above the Plain
Ondjiva to Lubango June 18, 2024 The road, liberally potholed cuts through yellow savannah dotted with scrubby trees. Women carry bundles of hay on their heads and cattle and goats walked past with goatherds in attendance. There are plenty of people walking along the edge of the road. Hitching a ride is common here since … More On the Road to Lubango
Angolan Border at Santa Clara June 18, 2024 “Do not go outside the bus” said the driver sternly, adding “not until it is full light outside at 8 am”. It was only 5 am and pitch dark. The reason for his warning was apparent in the shifting shapes of men skulking around, half seen in … More Do not Go Outside the Bus
Okaukuejo, Etosha NP Namibia June14, 2024 As if the parade of animals during the sunlit days were not enough, there was more in store at night. Parked at one of the benches, I along with most of the tourists watched the waterhole, itching with anticipation. The floodlights have come on as they do each evening. … More Drama at Night
Etosha National Park, Namibia June 11, 2024 Back at Windhoek Angie left for Tanzania and I headed up north to Etosha National Park. The gray ribbon of the highway cut through scrub and shrub dotted with termite mounds, looking like so many phallic symbols. Making good time on the good road I arrive at the … More Where Animals Come Parading
Outjo, Namibia June 10, 2024 I had wanted to visit the Ovahimba living museum near Opuwo but it was too far and I hadn’t the time. But as it happens by sheer luck, I visited a small village near Outjo. As often happens, it was entirely by chance and all the better for it. I … More In a Himba Village
ITCHY FEET TRAVELS 