The Changing Face of Kazimierz

Krakow, Poland

July 30, 2025

To the southeast of the old town of Krakow is the area called Kazimierz, founded by King Casimir in the 14^th century and named after him. It was a separate city, intended to protect the southern boundary of Krakow. In the late 15^th century, rising tensions in the city led to the Jewish population of Krakow being resettled there. This predominantly Jewish area flourished and by the 16^th century, was humming with commerce, culture and art. This was the golden age of Kazimierz, attracting many from other countries to come and settle here.

The Nazi occupation of 1939-1945 saw horror unfold, the likes of which the world had never seen before. Kazimierz was forcibly emptied, its residents forced into Podgorze ghetto and most of them killed brutally. A ghost town for most of the post war era, many of the buildings still wear scars. The High Synagogue stands silent next to a House of Talmudic studies.

But others have been re-incarnated recently. The Old Synagogue is now a Jewish History Museum. The Remah Synagogue, the second only to the Old Synagogue has undergone an extensive restoration.

Next to the Remah synagogue is the oldest Jewish cemetery of Kazimierz. From its establishment in 1553, it was actively used until 1850. The changing norms of the times are likely reflected in the varied sizes and shapes of the tombs. Some are cylindrical, some wear a roof. Some are flat on the ground while others are raised.

But look closely and you see a story in the encircling wall. During the Nazi occupation, the walls were torn down. The tombstones were smashed, the stated intent being to use them as paving stones at the camps. Unusable for paving material, they were recovered and now are embedded in the post-war restoration of the encircling wall. Called the Wall of Tears, I can’t help thinking how fitting the name is.

But there is change in the air as Kazimierz dons a new face. Many of the buildings have been refurbished as hotels and others are soon to follow. The old residential square has a long line of umbrellas over café tables.