Fortress at Sea

Suomenlinna, Finland

Aug 15, 2025

The Helsinki harbor is dotted with many little islands, some inhabited, some too small to support more than a cabin for occasional use. The most famous of them are a group of six islands; on these was built a sea fortress called Sveaborg, or Sea Fortress. Begun in 1748, it was built as a defense against Russia and deemed the Gibraltar of the North. Despite the fanfare, it did not quite achieve its purpose.

In 1808, during the Finnish war, Russia besieged the fortress. Surrender came only two months later. After independence of Finland, Sveaborg was renamed Suomenlinna or Fortress of Finland and used as a garrison for a while. In 1973 it was re-purposed for civilian use and today it is a popular tourist destination. The sardine-like packed ferry to the island speaks for itself. The waters are busy with sailboats, ferries and motorboats of sizes; it is a sailor’s paradise.

The long low buildings are now used for cafes, museums, shops and galleries. Some are residential; I see a few tell-tale vegetable gardens and bicycles and children’s toys in yards of some buildings. The nearby playground has plenty of children. A monument in the shape of a ship is a memorial to Count Augustin Ehrensvärd, the founder of the fortress.

The stone walls of the fortress in their star-shaped design still look formidable from various viewpoints. Here and there, they offer glimpses of the sea in different directions, making for pretty pictures on a sunny day.

The stone bunkers have several chambers branching off from a main corridor. They seem the most photogenic and popular among the visitors. The small windows are cunningly placed to offer views of the enemy from any direction, making for great photo ops.

Despite the 1991 listing of UNESCO status, it seems less a museum and more of a picnicking daytrip from Helsinki, popular among locals and tourists alike. If the weather gods are smiling, you are treated to a glorious sunset on the short ride across the water.


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