Where Mountains meet the Sea

Ulcinj (Montenegro) to Mostar (Bosnia)

Sept 3, 2025

Having reached Ulcinj in Montenegro, I hadn’t the zip to continue further and opted to stay just out of town in the home of a family. There seems to be a building frenzy in this town too, with every second shop selling building materials and every second house half finished. The family is lovely and warm and I wish I had the time to spend more time here. It is a tranquil place with a kitchen garden full of peppers and tomatoes and grape vines that climb up the balcony. Next to the woodpile, over a bathtub saved for potential future use is a fig tree with the fruit not yet ripe.

The bus now hugs the road next to the sea and I see the deep blue of the Adriatic once more, last seen when I was in Zadar, ages ago it seems. It looks pretty with the buildings climbing down to the water but I imagine the sprawl can be overwhelming at closer quarters.

The road traces the edge of the isthmus and at Lepetani a ferry is about to leave. We just make it and I have grand views of the sheltered bay inside. It is a beautiful! The crossing in barely ten minutes and we are in Kamenari and on the road again.

Soon we are trundling along next to farmlands again. But we are in the land of cypress trees and vine arbors now. Hours later we slow down and it is back to stop-and-go. The long line ahead is the Montenegro- Bosnia controls. This time we do troop out. The officer at the Montenegro border takes my passport, looks at me and hands it back. No scans, no stamp.  A few steps further is the Bosnian controls. This time the officer scans it while continuing a conversation with a colleague. And hands it back. No stamp. According to my passport, I entered Serbia and haven’t left yet. Oh well.


Leave a comment