iftravels

Care for a Bite?

June 12, 2023

The foods in restaurants and on the streets

Nasiriya, Iraq June 10, 2023 Iraq has no buses between its cities, nor bus routes within its cities. Between cities the options are shared vans seating seven passengers or shared taxis taking four. They all leave from a station(s) called “garage” and have no fixed departure times, but leave when full. I had been traveling … More Train Travel in Iraq

Cradle of Civilization IV

June 9, 2023

LAGASH Nasiriyah, Iraq June 9, 2023 This was yet another site I wanted to visit but one obscure enough that not even the locals knew about it. I went to the Department of Antiquities housed in the museum in Nasiriya and was greeted by the Head with welcome. My genuine interest in the ancient sites … More Cradle of Civilization IV

Cradle of Civilization III

June 8, 2023

UR Nasiriyah, Iraq June 8, 2023 Of all the sites, Ur was the simplest to access. Ali, who is from Nasiriyah has never been there and he had rounded up yet another friend, Mohammed who also had never been. A short 10 kms from Nasiriyah, this was simple to get to and being firmly on … More Cradle of Civilization III

In the Marshes

June 6, 2023

Chibayish, Iraq June 6, 2023 In the south of Iraq, between Nasiriya and Basra are marshlands, home of the Marsh Arabs. They have traditionally made their homes here relying on the rushes and reeds for shelter and fish and waterfowl for food. I wanted to see this place that is so different from the rest … More In the Marshes

Cradle of Civilization I

June 5, 2023

I usually write these tales in chronological order of travel but this story is presented a little differently. The sites I saw are more fittingly presented as came to prominence in history. Apart from the much-visited sites of Ur and Babylon, it is not easy to visit others. I had to request permission from the … More Cradle of Civilization I

The Holy of Holies

June 3, 2023

Najaf, Iraq June 3, 2023 A pilgrimage to Imam Ali’s shrine in Najaf is something pious pilgrims will wish to do at least once in their lives. This is second only to going to Hajj in Mecca. As befits this honor, the area around the shrine is enormous. The 13240 sq. meters is a massive … More The Holy of Holies

Cradle of Civilization II

June 1, 2023

KISH Al Hillah, Iraq June 1, 2023 This is yet another ancient site that is not visited by many and I had an uphill task trying to get there. Abu Mustafa’s son Yusuf was already disgruntled because I had spent too much time in Babylon but agreed to go with an air of resigned good … More Cradle of Civilization II

Bab-ibil Gate of Gods

June 1, 2023

Babylon, Iraq June 1, 2023 A long, long time ago, sometime around 3000 BCE, on the banks of the Euphrates grew a small village. Unimportant at the time, it was to become the capital of the Akkadian-speaking empire of 1800 BCE. The old Akkadian name of Bab-ibil, meaning Gate of Gods morphed into the Greek … More Bab-ibil Gate of Gods

Ziggurat of Nabu

May 31, 2023

Borsippa or Birs Nimrud, Iraq May 31, 2023 I had read of the ruins of ancient Borsippa, a sister city of the more famous Babylon. It is close to the town of Al Hillah and of course was eager to go there. Abu Mustafa, the taxi driver who had helped me find a hotel in … More Ziggurat of Nabu