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Jan 10, 2019 Sousse, Tunisia Scrambling up the narrow spiral stairs in the Ribat tower, I am rewarded with a panorama of the city. Built in the eighth century, this was once a watchtower. Today it gives tourists a birds’ eye view of the medina. The austere lines of the Aghlabid Grand Mosque lie below. … More Inside the Medina
Carthage, Tunisia Jan 6, 2019 Although founded by Phoenicians, stories of its founding trickle down to us, not from the Phoenicians but from Greek and Roman writers. Like all self-respecting Greek sagas, the story has lashings of avarice, the requisite murder and intrigues guaranteed to satisfy the most bloodthirsty soul. The story unfolds with King … More Ruins of Carthage
Tunis, Tunisia Jan 4, 2019 Broad palm-lined boulevards mark the new city, dotted with iconic landmarks. Sidewalk cafes line the streets under bright canopies. Shops, restaurants and patisseries are busy with customers and the air hums with the sound of conversation. Several of the side streets are pedestrianized and thronged with shoppers. At the end … More Introduction to Tunisia
Qrendi, Malta Jan 2, 2019 A long, long time ago, there lived in the island of Gozo, a giantess named Sansuna. For reasons known only to her, she decided to build a temple. She carted massive stone blocks several kilometers to the chosen site – a feat easily accomplished with strength derived from an unvarying … More The Giants of Malta
Valleta, Malta Dec 30, 2018 Crisp sunshine, sparkling blue seas and brightly painted fishing boats frame the once-weekly fish market in Marsaxlokk, at the south-eastern edge of the main island of Malta. My incurable addiction to bazaars dictated a mandatory wander and off I went. Low-key albeit busy, the crowd is almost all tourists, mostly … More Many Shades of Malta
Dogubayazit, Turkey Aug 17, 2018 Five years ago, when I was traveling through south-eastern Anatolia, I had stopped in Dogubayazit, the last town in eastern Turkey. In the few days spent there, I had stayed in a hostel called Otel Tahran. It was owned by Bilal and it was his friend Mustafa, who had shown … More Auld Lang Syne
Kars, Turkey Aug 15, 2018 On a wind-swept plateau bounded by the deep gorge of the Akhurian river on one side, is the site of Ani. Begun in 961 AD, it flourished between the 10th and 11th century as the capital of the Bagratid kingdom of Armenia. Its position on lucrative trade routes ensured that … More The Ghost of Ani
Kars, Turkey Aug 13, 2018 Traveling through Armenia, I’d been hearing stories of Ani, the fabled capital of the Bagratid kingdom of Armenia dating back to the middle ages. There are rumors of a place near Gyumri from where one gets a view of Ani. But nobody I met had actually been there, nor could … More To Turkey on a Whim
Alaverdi, Armenia Aug 7, 2018 More than eighty percent of all travelers to Armenia choose to stay in Yerevan and take packaged tours to various parts of the country. Of the remainder, smart ones rent cars to travel around the country. The tiny percent who choose to travel independently minus transport, soon find that there … More All Roads Lead to Yerevan
Dilijan, Armenia Aug 4, 2018 “What are you writing?” he asked, not that I understood the words, but miming leaves little room for misunderstanding. “About Armenia” I answered, “and where to go next” I mimed in reply. “What about Sevan?” he asked. So started our stuttering conversation at the little café where I sat scribbling … More Skippable Sevan
ITCHY FEET TRAVELS 