Shivers of Excitement

New York April 22, 2019 I have had a long-standing dream that entails traveling from Pakistan to Afghanistan to Turkmenistan and then across the Caspian Sea into Azerbaijan. Not the easiest places to travel in, and therein lies part of the attraction. But also not the easiest to get visas. But mulish stubbornness is a … More Shivers of Excitement

Fat Ladies Again

Gozo, Malta Jan 21, Malta Flying in from Tunis, I had barely a day in Malta before returning home and I knew just what I wanted to do. The Gigantija temple called and so a here I was on sparkling blue waters, heading to the island of Gozo on the ferry. Tall church spires, narrow … More Fat Ladies Again

For Your Security

Tataouine, Tunisia Jan 16, 2019 All along this trip in Tunisia I’ve been dredging my brains for long-forgotten Arabic. Some of it has come back but frustratingly slowly. Not about to let that stand in the way, I have been brandishing a horrendous mix of Arabic and English, with some English words given a French … More For Your Security

Crowned with a Ksar

Tataouine, Tunisia Jan 15, 2019 The rugged landscape around Tataouine is riddled with hillocks, many of them topped with what looks like a cardboard cutout with jagged edges. Each is a ksar built by the Berbers in the 13th or 14th century. Built as fortified granaries, some incorporated entire villages and trailed along the ridgeline. … More Crowned with a Ksar

A Berber Welcome

Toujane, Tunisia Jan 12, 2019 The road from Matmata to Toujane winds its way through scrubby hillsides with views of small towns and villages all the way east to the thin blue line of the sea. There are goats and sheep being taken to pasture, mostly by young boys but sometimes by men and women. … More A Berber Welcome