iftravels

At A Nomad Camp Somewhere between Ganden and Samye Monasteries June, 2004 Starting at the ungodly hour of five in the morning one day, I went to Barkhor to catch the bus to the Ganden monastery. I planned to trek toward Samye but had heard that there was still too much snow at the pass. … More At a Nomad Camp

In Lhasa Again

May 30, 2004

Lhasa May 29th, 2004 I cannot believe it. I am here; I am really here in Lhasa again! Flying under the radar worked. It has been so long. The flat-roofed houses with prayer flags fluttering in the corners, the people in their chubas, carrying prayer wheels and fingering rosary beads, the open faces and big … More In Lhasa Again

In a Tea Garden

January 19, 2004

In a Tea Garden Istanbul, Turkey Dec 26th, 2003 In the Sultanahmet area of Istanbul, along the Divan Yolu is a cemetary. It houses the tombs of some of the Ottoman rulers – those of Mahmud II, Abdulaziz and Abdul Mahmud II. The tombs are raised off the ground and made of white marble. At … More In a Tea Garden

Through the Eyes of a Eagle

July 15, 2003

Shanti Stupa, Changspa Leh, India July 14, 2003 I am sitting on the large paved area at the foot of the stupa called the Shanti stupa. Built in 1985, it is built in the traditional style. High on a hilltop, overseeing Leh and its surroundings, it is an area of peace and quiet contemplation except … More Through the Eyes of a Eagle

Taking the High Road

July 12, 2003

Manali, India July 9, 2003 True to his word, Ravi, at the Himalayan Caravan, has found a few others to share the ride to Leh and has a van and a driver. All is set and the car will pick us up tomorrow. Ravi told me that food might be found in the shops … More Taking the High Road

Walking to Pakxeng

June 12, 2003

Luang Prabang June, 2003 I had been in Laos a few days, in the town of Luang Prabang and could not wait to explore the countryside. Being severely allergic to tour groups meant going on a solo walkabout. So I set off from Luang Prabang, heading north-east, thinking to go walking for week or so. … More Walking to Pakxeng

Tourists of Another Stripe

June 3, 2003

Bangkok, Thailand June 3, 2003 Bangkok is chock full of tourists, the SARS scare notwithstanding. They fill up the cafes, bars and restaurants in town, crowd the beaches in the south and stream to the hills in the north. They travel here in couples and groups but the majority of the tourists are men. Young … More Tourists of Another Stripe

Hog Heaven

May 27, 2003

Banglamphu, Bangkok May 27, 2003 Bangkok swelters under blazing sunshine and the humidity is off the charts. I duck under some shade but there is no respite from the heat. It is the kind of heat where you slowly melt into a puddle simply sittng still. I am in the Banglamphu area of Bangkok sitting … More Hog Heaven

Have You Eaten my Mother’s Tagine?

December 27, 2002

Marrakesh, Morocco, Dec 27th, 2002 “Ca va?” I heard as I walked past the shops heading toward the square. It came from the trio of young men as they lounged in one of the park benches placed at intervals along the pavement. A common practice in this part of the world to strike up a … More Have You Eaten my Mother’s Tagine?