On the Trail to Everest

Solu Khumbu, Nepal June 25th, 2000 There is a trail that leads from Jiri, near Kathmandu all the way to the Everest Base Camp. It is justifiably famous among the trekking and mountaineering communities and thronged by them come high season. But in the middle of the monsoon season, there were hardly any other tourists … More On the Trail to Everest


Solu Khumbu, Nepal June 20th, 2000 I had trekked to the Everest base camp from Jiri and was now on my way back down. Along the way, I passed the same villages that I had passed on the way up to the base camp. It was at Tengpoche that a curious thing happened. In the … More She

Morning Prayers

Tengpoche, Solu Kumbhu, Nepal June 17th, 2000 I woke to the sounds of cymbals and drums and the sight of the prayer flags fluttering in the breeze atop Tengpoche Gompa. The morning promised a beautiful day. It was 5:30 in the morning and Passang Thongdu, his wife Nishir and I were sitting in their kitchen … More Morning Prayers