On Lake Kivu

Kibuye, Rwanda

July 6, 2024

One of the largest freshwater lakes in Africa, Lake Kivu is shared by Rwanda and the DRC. Pretty though it is, the Rwandan shores at some spots are dotted with hotels and resorts and are incorrigible tourist traps. A strip of sand barely a foot wide is the “beach” at Kibuye, sandbagged along the edge. Boat rides are the thing to do, at predictably ridiculous prices.

I wandered on along the road and fell into a conversation with a man sitting under a tree. Nelson used to be a fisherman but now has rented a boat hoping to break into the tourist trade of boat rides. I hadn’t the least desire to be taken to the assorted islands but did want to go on a fishing boat.

“Oh no” said Nelson, “that is not allowed. But we can meet some of the fishermen”.

The lake is a deep blue with distant islands popping out of the surface. He had an interesting story about a tiny one, close by. In the past said Nelson, “unwed pregnant women were taken to this island and left there. Then the men from Congo would come and take them to be their wives.” I had read about this custom but had no idea if this was one of the islands. It seemed too close to the mainland.

We pass a roped-off area where fish are bred and soon enough saw a fishing boat. Gliding over to intercept them, I peered into their bucket of fish. It wasn’t a lot for five hours of fishing they said. But could they sell it for a decent price, I asked.

“We can only sell to the government cooperative” they said “or to the local village board. And the prices are fixed”.

There is that strict regulation again, I thought. It seems to reach every aspect of life here. Puttering back, I see a school group by the shore. Some of the kids intent on taking a dip.