Babylon, Iraq
June 1, 2023
A long, long time ago, sometime around 3000 BCE, on the banks of the Euphrates grew a small village. Unimportant at the time, it was to become the capital of the Akkadian-speaking empire of 1800 BCE. The old Akkadian name of Bab-ibil, meaning Gate of Gods morphed into the Greek name Babylon, a place as well-known now as it was in the past.
Hammurabi, the famous king of the Old Babylonian empire had made it his capital during his reign (1792-1750 BCE). His stele with 282 laws carved on it, although not the first, was the first clearly defined laws governing his empire. But peace has never reigned long in these parts and Babylon saw a succession of empires – the Hittites, Kassites and Neo-Assyrians. It wasn’t until the rise of the Neo-Babylonian dynasty of Nebuchadnezzar II that Babylon returned to glory. The tales of the Hanging gardens of Babylon and the Tower of Babel all date from this later period and it is these ruins that travelers have flocked to see. We, who come to see Babylon walk in the footsteps of other travelers who have visited Babylon three thousand years ago. Imagine that!
A reproduction of the Ishtar Gate, about two-thirds of the original size, greets tourists at the entrance of the site, although the original gate was located further inside. A map of the city in its days of glory is painted on the inside wall. Sharing space with it is a map of the world as it was then known as depicted in a carved stele that was discovered. An artist’s rendition shows the splendor of the city as it is imagined.
The long processional way lies arrow-straight between high walls. The square bricks are bitumen-covered and original. Some are said to be stamped with the name of Nebuchadnezzar II but guarded by rails, I could not get close enough to see any.
The walls themselves had been restored under the orders of Saddam Hussein. But not content to simply restore, he ordered them built to his own vision of this ancient capital. Upto five meters of the old walls were buried in this attempt and the overly-restored walls and summer palace have a distinctly Disneyesque appearance. It is little wonder that UNESCO took the site off its list at the time!
Heading north along the processional way as I approach the original location of the Ishtar gate, to the right is a temple dedicated to the mother goddess Ninmah and to the left is the restored Southern Palace. This too has suffered the same blasphemous restoration but the throne room and vast courtyards still give a sense of the grandeur of the past. Arched gates lead from courtyard to another. To northern side of the courtyards are the remains of walls of a massive housing complex. What were once rooms, hallways and connecting corridors now form a maze, tempting me to wander and get lost in them.
Thankfully Saddam’s re-building did not extend to the entire site and vast areas are now undergoing restorations with more historical accuracy, or so say the prominent signs posted in areas closed off to tourists. And these are by far more interesting. The remains of the original Ishtar Gate awaiting restoration show the rows of bulls, lions and that odd fantasy animal with head of a dragon, tail of a serpent, claws of a lion and a scaled body. The few slabs that are now housed in museums makes my imagination soar. The deep blue lapiz glaze of the background and the brilliantly painted reliefs must have been mind-boggling in its day.
At the end of the processional way are ruins of what is believed to be the Summer Palace. Some believe that this was the location of the famed Hanging Gardens of Babylon, while others think they were in Nineveh. To the west, beyond the wall is the large basalt statue of the Lion of Babylon. The marks on its back are indicative of a saddle that may have once carried a statue of Ishtar.
The jumble of ruins to the west of the walls are believed to be the Northern Palace or perhaps fortress. Over it looms the massive palace built by Saddam Hussein. It sticks out like a sore thumb, the sight visible from just about everywhere.
The Tower of Babel is thought to have been a giant ziggurat, a temple to Marduk. It is about a kilometer to the south along a long walkway. Nothing remains now but the foundation and even this is difficult to appreciate from ground level. Areal views in photos online show a rectangular shape but all I see is a depression and a stagnant pool.
ITCHY FEET TRAVELS 