Holy of Holies

Najaf, Iraq

June 3, 2023

A pilgrimage to Imam Ali’s shrine in Najaf is something pious pilgrims will wish to do at least once in their lives. This is second only to going to Hajj in Mecca. As befits this honor, the area around the shrine is enormous. The 13240 sq. meters is a massive quadrangle with long corridors stretching on both sides. This area is closed off to vehicular traffic and people stream in toward the shrine. Or ride in the carts like ones I saw in Kerbala.

Closer to the shrine, carpets are laid out inviting visitors to sit, rest, eat, sleep and there are plenty do so. Fans blow through jets of water, cooling the temperatures down a tad. The area is constantly swept both manually and in those ridable machines one sees at airports. Water stations with disposable plastic cups offer refreshing cold water and there are no shortage of food stalls or for that stalls selling just about everything. Shopping is part and parcel of the whole journey and bulging shopping bags testify to brisk business.

The sheer volume of people makes it difficult for everyone to enter. But this is no problem. There are giant screens displaying the inner sanctum and plenty pray outside.

Rows of lockers line the walls to leave shoes before entering and in the drop-off office for bags, men work in shifts. I learned that this place is open 24/7! The sheer manpower and expense involved makes my mind boggle. There are further security checks before entering and only cell phones are allowed in. Having learned my lesson in Kerbala, I had made sure I was in correct hijab and have no problems this time around.

Tall marble columns support a glittering ceiling covered in silver and gold. The light from the numerous chandeliers rival Times Square and the air-conditioning makes it blissfully cool. Over the top is the phrase that comes to mind but strangely it works for a place like this.

I am of course in the women’s section and there are plenty others. Some sleep, a few pray, some are glued to their phones and some catch up on the latest gossip. The men’s section seems pretty much the same. When the rest of the country loses power numerous times each day, I doubt this place suffers the same fate. Perhaps it is a smart idea to catch up in sleep here!

And then comes the area leading to the actual shrine. A heaving, seething mass of humanity pours like lava through the doors. Sandwiched in this moving mass, I am propelled inside with no effort. The immense gold-covered shrine lies until a beautiful painted dome. What should have been gaudy and garish, somehow fits. This is no place for orderliness though. The pushing, shoving and reaching for the bars of the shrine are a tale in itself and it takes me only a few minutes to want to escape to the relative calm outside the room.