ITCHY FEET TRAVELS

Mosul, Iraq

June 24, 2023

Taken over by ISIS on June 10, 2014, Mosul was liberated after more than three long years on July 21 2017 by allied forces of the Iraqi, Peshmerga and foreign troops. The ravages wrought by ISIS still remain, a stark reminder of the horrors of those years. Their brutal occupation resulted in death, torture, rape and disappearance of many of the city’s residents. The scars remain. Bombed-out buildings pockmarked by bullet holes are on every street in the old city of Mosul. It appears that ISIS spared none in their incomprehensible assault. Neither historic landmarks, nor mosques, nor churches, nor shops or homes of ordinary people were spared.

But look closer and you find this city emerging anew. New buildings replace the bombed -out shells and hoardings advertise the joint efforts of NGOs, UNESCO and governments of various countries to rebuild Mosul.

A day ago when Lynne and I visited some parts, taking photos of some children resulted in being invited home. For the first time in Iraq, having traveled for more than a month, I was invited home. Chatting with three generations of members of the family, we were told that their house too had been reduced to rubble and was re-built with the help of monies from NGOs and foreign governments.

Like a phoenix the city rises again and it is the will of its people that makes this happen. Walking the streets on my own I am greeted at every turn – across streets and chased down its narrow alleys. Selfies are mandatory as they welcome me to Mosul. Broad grins invite conversation and I do not have to ask to take photos, they insist I do so and pose happily. Of all the cities and towns in Iraq, it is here among the people of old city of Mosul that I find the most openness and welcome.

The Beytna Art Café in the old city is making an effort to showcase the history and culture of this city. An old building refurbished in the old style has walls covered with photographs of people linked to Mosul who have contributed to not only to Mosul but to Iraq. Their contributions span all fields, be it law, literature, arts, medicine, military, politics or commerce. Some are faces I recognize. A personable young man Ahmed Najdat, who is finishing his medical degree has spearheaded this effort in this café. The Mosul Heritage Day is yet another sign of its people proudly reclaiming its heritage.

Asking a random person on the street about the feeling of welcome in this city, so different from others, I am told that Moslawis are special.

“For millenia we have lived in peace with all races, ethnicities, religions, casts and creeds. And we will do so again” he tells me.

I see their pride in a small park guarded by statues of eagles. There are panels that show its history. From its beginnings in the Assyrian empire to the destruction wrought by ISIS to its re-built city under the blessings of its goddess. I mentally doff my hat at the resilience of the people of this city and hope it may continue for several more millenia.