Sell a Goat, Buy a Sheep, Check the Camels

Nizwa, Oman

Jan 12, 2024

It was still dark with a slight nip in the air when I walked down to the big parking lot in front of the souq. It had transformed itself into a depot of animals with plenty more arriving every minute. Sheep, goats, calves and cows baaed, bleated and mooed from their cages on trucks. The weekly animal market in Nizwa was about to begin.

As the sun peeked over the rooftops, I saw more of them – large, small, long-haired and with curly wool. Some are shorn and others are shaggy haired. There seemed to be every sort. Even a lone camel tied to a post.

This market is not only for the four-legged beasts. There are pigeons, parrots, guinea hens and turtles. Some are bought as pets but I wondered about the others. The pigeons were likely sold as food. I remember how they are considered a delicacy in Egypt.

This weekly gathering is also a place to greet friends and neighbors, catch up on the latest news and plenty of those who come take delight in socializing. Almost all are men, some with young boys in tow. I see only two local women. They wear a niqab that must be unique to this area, looking almost like the face mask of knights of old.

The circular roofed podium has filled with people eagerly anticipating the auction. Yet more stand in a circle around the podium, leaving an open path in between. The crowd is large and the about three or four deep. I jostle my way to the edge so I have a good view. Hoh! Here comes the first man, leading a shaggy goat by a rope. Soon others follow as they walk in no particular order. They shout out the price as they walk the circular path. The prices range from 10 Riyals for the smallest kids to well over 70 or 80 for the larger animals.

Some of the animals may be bought to rear but most are for food. Those interested raise a hand or call out. Then follows a minute inspection of the udders, wool and teeth. Haggling follows and the decibel level grows as more and more throng the path. It is a perfect melee of shouted prices, haggling and the baas and bleats of the animals. Some of the animals decide to make a run for it and a tad more chaos is added as it is caught and brought back.

It is lively, chaotic and a perfect delight as I jostle along with others. Plenty of animals are bought and sold but alas, the camel is never brought out.