Where Saudi Arabia Began

Al Turaif

Riyadh, Saudi Arabia

Jan 1, 2023

Begun in the 15th century, the mudbrick collection of buildings in the district of Diraiyah became the capital of the Arab state in mid-18th century. Hardly ancient by any standards, the large complex has the quaint charm of the labyrinthine towns much older than it. Narrow lanes wind between high-walled buildings and open into larger plazas intermittently. Deep set doorways outline gaily painted doors. Well, it had charm at one point.

The entrance today is flanked by cafes, shops and restaurants with inflated prices as seems to be the norm elsewhere in tourist spots. The hoarding out front underscores the main focus of tourist spots – it proudly claims this as the epitome of shopping and dining! The buildings are made to look like those of old, but sport fountains. The visitor center has comfortable seating but the audio visuals gracing the wraparound screen are a hodgepodge of disjointed images and information. A well-made documentary of the history would have been so much more appreciated! At least by travelers such as I.

The entire complex is being renovated on an immense scale. Information plaques are few and far between and although there are personnel stationed at every corner, none seem to know anything about the place or its history. Like the brand new “old town” of Al Ula, every inch has been remade until it has a distinctly Disneyesque appearance. Or a Hollywood movie set if you prefer. Still, it is picturesque and makes for good photo ops.

But not all areas are completed yet, so there are still odd glimpses of the older structures and they have that elusive charm that the Disneyesque ones lack.

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