To Turkmenistan

Bukhara,  Uzbekistan  August 5, 2019 The five day marathon begins today and I am off to Turkmenistan.  This is a country with precious little information available.  What there is comes from online forums and travellers met on the road. Word is, Internet and WiFi are not quite there yet.  I guess I will just have … More To Turkmenistan

A Shopaholic’s Delight

Bukhara, Uzbekistan Aug 3, 2019 The trading domes in the old town dating back to the Silk Road days, still have shops. But these now sell handcrafts, most very beautifully made. Suzanis and carpets, embroidered table-cloths and cushion covers, jackets and dresses, hand-painted miniatures vie with handmade knives and swords made by master craftsmen. What … More A Shopaholic’s Delight

In Bactria Again

Termez, Uzbekistan July 28, 2019 My wanderings in Balkh and Mazar-i-Sharif in Afghanistan were intriguing because of the wealth of history this part of the world is steeped in. And frustrating because I could not travel easily or see the many sites that I wanted to. But Bactria of old had boundaries that stretched beyond Amu … More In Bactria Again

Welcome to Termez

Termez, Uzbekistan July 26, 2019 Getting off the train, I ran the usual gauntlet of taxi drivers. The backpack may scream “tourist” but fending them off is simple. A couple of words of Tajik and they just write me off and turn to other potential customers. Unable to remember most of the Uzbek I had … More Welcome to Termez

Over the Moon

Tashkent, Uzbekistan July 22, 2019 I got it! I got it! I got it! I got it! I got it! I got it! I got it! That is the refrain playing through my head. I still cannot believe that I got this infamously difficult visa. The rumors on traveler grapevine of Tashkent having a higher … More Over the Moon

The New Silk Road

Samarkhand, Uzbekistan July 19, 2019 In days of yore, camel caravans would arrive in Samarkhand or Bukhara with heartfelt relief. If traveling west, they had survived the dangers of the Taklamakhan desert, battled the robbers in the passes of the Hindu Kush and traveled the dry high deserts of the Pamirs. They would arrive in … More The New Silk Road