Ye Olde Yerevan

Erebuni, Armenia Jul 20, 2018 To Khaldi the Lord, Argishti, son of Menua, built this house and a great fortress and called it Erebuni. So reads the cuneiform inscription on a stone found here, amid the ruins of an ancient citadel. Atop a sun-scorched hill with commanding views of the plains in every direction are … More Ye Olde Yerevan

Gateway to Svaneti

Mestia, Georgia Jul 5, 2018 Once considered remote and impregnable, the Svaneti region of Georgia’s far northwest is very much on the tourist radar these days. This year with the introduction of a host of budget flights on Wizzair from a variety of European cities, the tiny town of Mestia is bursting at the seams. … More Gateway to Svaneti

The Golden Age

Vardzia, Georgia Jun 29, 2018 Tamar is a name shared by many women and girls in Georgia, all of them named after Queen Tamar of Georgia’s golden age. The unification of rival tribes and expansion of territories that began with David the Builder, culminated into Georgia’s greatest years during the reign of his great-granddaughter. Although … More The Golden Age

Snapshot of Sighnaghi

Sighnaghi, Georgia Jun 21, 2018 High above the Alazani valley, looking north to the Caucasian foothills is a hill with multiple ridges, and the small town atop is Sighnaghi. The surrounding areas have roots that go back three or four millenia, as shown by the finds in kurgans. Settled since Paleolithic times, bronze-age pottery, ornaments, … More Snapshot of Sighnaghi

My Dom, You Dom

Kish, Azerbaijan Jun 18, 2018 “Bir kilo, bir manat” she said, pointing to the tomatoes in her bulging shopping bag. “Chok fazla yok? I asked butchering Turkish in what has become the norm for me these past weeks. “Bu yaksha?” I continued, asking if this was a good price. “Bale, bale” she replied, but she … More My Dom, You Dom