Mosul, Iraq June 24, 2023 Taken over by ISIS on June 10, 2014, Mosul was liberated after more than three long years on July 21 2017 by allied forces of the Iraqi, Peshmerga and foreign troops. The ravages wrought by ISIS still remain, a stark reminder of the horrors of those years. Their brutal occupation … More From the Ravages of War
Qaragosh, Kurdistan June 22, 2023 From glory days of a powerful empire to the ignominy of present day is the tale of the peoples who claim descent from the Assyrians. They converted to Christianity in the early days of the religion and have a long and bitter history of persecution. Quite by chance, in chatting … More Where Have the Assyrians Gone?
Kifrki, Kurdistan June 19, 2023 Undaunted by our traipse over what most would call dirt hills, Lynne was game for yet more spots off the tourist trail. I had read about the Halamata Cave, especially the Assyrian bas-relief carvings dating from Sennacherib, son of Sargon II that are still in place on the sheer face … More In Search of Elusive Sculptures
Baghdad, Iraq June 14, 2023 Having traveled in the neighboring countries before, I knew well the hospitality of the people in this part of the world. I have tales aplenty in Iran, in Turkey and in Central Asia where I have been befriended, helped and invited home. In Iraq it was the degree of … More Kindness of Strangers
Nasiriya, Iraq June 10, 2023 Iraq has no buses between its cities, nor bus routes within its cities. Between cities the options are shared vans seating seven passengers or shared taxis taking four. They all leave from a station(s) called “garage” and have no fixed departure times, but leave when full. I had been traveling … More Train Travel in Iraq
LAGASH Nasiriyah, Iraq June 9, 2023 This was yet another site I wanted to visit but one obscure enough that not even the locals knew about it. I went to the Department of Antiquities housed in the museum in Nasiriya and was greeted by the Head with welcome. My genuine interest in the ancient sites … More Cradle of Civilization IV
UR Nasiriyah, Iraq June 8, 2023 Of all the sites, Ur was the simplest to access. Ali, who is from Nasiriyah has never been there and he had rounded up yet another friend, Mohammed who also had never been. A short 10 kms from Nasiriyah, this was simple to get to and being firmly on … More Cradle of Civilization III
Chibayish, Iraq June 6, 2023 In the south of Iraq, between Nasiriya and Basra are marshlands, home of the Marsh Arabs. They have traditionally made their homes here relying on the rushes and reeds for shelter and fish and waterfowl for food. I wanted to see this place that is so different from the rest … More In the Marshes
I usually write these tales in chronological order of travel but this story is presented a little differently. The sites I saw are more fittingly presented as came to prominence in history. Apart from the much-visited sites of Ur and Babylon, it is not easy to visit others. I had to request permission from the … More Cradle of Civilization I
Najaf, Iraq June 3, 2023 A pilgrimage to Imam Ali’s shrine in Najaf is something pious pilgrims will wish to do at least once in their lives. This is second only to going to Hajj in Mecca. As befits this honor, the area around the shrine is enormous. The 13240 sq. meters is a massive … More The Holy of Holies
ITCHY FEET TRAVELS 