ITCHY FEET TRAVELS

Bogazkale, Turkey

July 13, 2023

Nobody seems to agree on the origins of the Hittites, nor how they came to this area of central Anatolia. They apparently settled here around the 2nd millennium BCE, assimilated into the indigenous population of the Hatti and took on the name of Hittite. The Museum of Anatolian Civilization in Ankara has finds from the Hatti period of 3^rd millenium BCE from various sites in this area.  Figures of goddesses, a couple of beautifully wrought gold vases and some ceramic pottery are among the artifacts.

Lacking written documents, not much is known about them and the little that is, remains contested. The advent of Assyrian traders who established colonies here brought with it the cuneiform script, seals, stamps, figurines, whimsical pottery and other accoutrements of the Sumerian civilization. I see images in the tablets that are similar to ones I saw just recently  in Iraq. The artifacts from several archeological sites include letters and treaties and documents.

A letter in cuneiform from Naptera, wife of Rameses II, king of Egypt to Puduhepa, wife of Hattusili III, king of Hittites is one such. Another is a marriage contract with clearly stated terms. Yet another refers to the necessities of trade caravans. The earliest peace treaty between nations is here as well – the Kadesh Treaty, a copy of which hangs at the United Nations.

It is this Hittite empire of 1650-1200 BCE that had its capital at Hattusa. I wanted to see it.  Not particularly easy to get to, but that streak of stubbornness ensured that I arrived at Bogazkale, the small village at the foot of the mountain stronghold. Spread out over a large area, the ruins follow the topography of the terrain with a circuit of 6 kms along the walls. I had the entire day to walk and wander.

At the bottom of the circular path is the remnant of the Great Temple and the buildings of lower section. The sprawling temple is thought to be dedicated to the Storm god Teshup and his consort the Sun goddess Arinna It was difficult to appreciate just how large the temple was until I had climbed high enough to have a better perspective. Wide stone-paved walkways lead to gates and huge courtyards. The block of green stone lies amid remnants of portals and walls. Stories abound regarding the nature and origin of the stone but it still holds onto its secret.

Uphill I climb and see more ruins. It is intriguing to see how the Hittites took advantage of the existing topography to build their stronghold. And changed it when they needed to. Rocky outcrops are carved to suit and rock walls are used brilliantly for strategic defense.

Higher still, past a couple of hairpin curves I get to the Lion Gate, so called because of the pair of lions carved on the side of the gate facing outward from the wall. The Roman arch is yet to be, so the arch here is made of separate blocks ingeniously placed. The stone blocks of the walls are fitted with angles and curves – it reminds me a little of the Inca walls seen many years ago in Peru.

Further uphill is the Sphinx Gate, so called because of a pair of sphinxes that graced it. The plaster copies are terrible but the original pair now live in the small museum at Bogazkale. I imagine them in place in the wall that stretches away hugging the contours of this hill that is apparently manmade. A seventy-meter-long tunnel stretches through the bottom of the hill, connecting with the upper level via a perilous flight of stone steps. Again I see a clever workaround for a arch in the two leaning walls. Brilliant!

It is here that I meet a family from Tokat, who are also exploring Hattusa. We chat a bit and they extend an invitation should I visit Tokat. Who knows? I may well do so at some point.

From this highest point of the circuit I have a grand view of the surroundings as did the Hittites. The valleys stretch out in all directions at the foot of this rocky lair, making approaching enemies easy to spot. There are plenty of ruins scattered over the dips and hollows, some large, some small.

Downhill is another gate in the wall, called the King’s Gate. There is a figure at the gate, some think it was a protective god, some others think it was a soldier. Yet again, it is a deplorable plaster copy but I remember the original seen in the Museum in Ankara.

Downhill some more and I come to Nishantash, so called because it bears an inscription. It is this that has helped pinpoint the Hittite era but I have a hard time deciphering any of the characters, so eroded is it.

Across from the rock is the southern fortress. As section of the wall is preserved as is a small chamber. Behind the padlocked fence I see the same arched roof and a carving on the side wall as well as the back wall. But it is the third wall that is most intriguing. The wall has a message written in Luwian Hieroglyphs, a language that was indigenous to this region and used in conjunction with cuneiform. A translation at the museum in Bogazkale explains that it was written by Suppiluliama II, the last king of the Hittites. In the fashion if the times, he says he trumpets his achievements. It tells how has conquered many lands and built many cities with the support of the gods.

The last notable ruin is the massive palace. Hugging the contours of the hill, it sprawls across the top and staggers down the slopes on all sides. What a fantastic view of the surroundings it must have had, indeed still does.

Far below I see the entrance and the layout of the Great Temple. I see the plains and fields stretch out below with the ribbon of the road winding through them. In the distance are outlines of hills fading into the haze. A pair of hawks wheel above me and the only sound is the shushing of the wind.