A Tale of Three Cities

Tripoli, Lebanon

Aug 4, 2023

Around 8^th century BCE when the Phoenicians were establishing trading posts across the Mediterranean, they also established one here. The Greeks called it Tripolis or three cities because it was settled by each of the three city-states of Tyre, Sidon and Arwad (in present day Syria).

The chaotic streets and the hum of this city has a flavor quite different from the other places I have traveled in so far. It is far-removed from the cheesy environs of Batroun or Byblos and the sophistication of Beirut. I stayed in the old town with its chaotic traffic, straggling spaghetti of power lines among tenement-like buildings. Trouble off and on in Tripoli probably dictates the presence of army personnel at some corners but I feel no tension in the air.

Getting lost is a delight as I wander the narrow lanes between old stone buildings,

up alleys and under arched openings. Some are residences, some shops and some are both. I get smiles and stop to chat a few times.

Like other places in this area, Tripoli has seen the march of many an empire. It is the Mamluk reign of 13^th century CE that began massive re-building and is responsible for the labyrinthine souk with its traditional areas of Souk Saboun (soap), Souk Attar (perfume) and Souk Sayyaghin (jewelry, mostly gold).

The Grand Mansouri mosque, the oldest mosque in Tripoli is also from this era.

There are a couple of Turkish Baths in this city and within the Souk is the Hamman Abed. Of old Turkish design, it is utterly charming. Unfortunately, it appeared booked the day I wandered into it, nor was any appointment available the next day.

As elsewhere, Tripoli too boasts a Crusader Citadel that sits atop the hill. Built on the remains of an earlier fort, this has a moat and a view of the city.

This area of the city has a more Arab feel. It is in the hijab and abaya-clad women, in the snatches of Arabic I hear. It is in the coffee urns that are same as the ones I saw in Iraq recently. It is in the kebabs that are grilled to perfection. And it is in the welcome I feel. To date, this has been the city I liked best in Lebanon.