ITCHY FEET TRAVELS

Muscat, Oman

Jan 5, 2024

Spread out along the coast of the Gulf of Oman, Muscat is a lovely mix of old forts and palaces and sleek new buildings. It is where cruise ships share the indigo blue waters with traditional dhows. And brown craggy hills form a backdrop for low-rise white-washed buildings. A giant monument of an incense burner is a tribute to the wealth of Oman built on the trade of frankincense and myrrh.

I found plenty of travelers at the hostel and a group of us wandered along the shore heading to the old town of Muscat. The old souq still has plenty of shops and yet more shoppers. But these days it is mostly tourist goods just as in the Grand Bazar of Istanbul or similar other souqs and bazars. The building still has the typical painted ceilings. They remind me of Khiva in Uzbekistan with their intricate designs although the colors here are more muted.

Through the Muscat Gate, we walked to the Sultan’s Palace with its modernistic design. The typical architecture of Oman tends to be a symphony of understated elegance. It reminds me of Kashan, a city in Iran. The clean lines with their lack of gaudiness makes it all the more beautiful. The backdrop is the Al Mirani fort, originally built to protect the trade on which Omani riches were built.

The Old town of Muscat is the usual maze of narrow lanes and byways. No sooner had we wandered into them, than we met a family sitting in their outdoor garden. Chatting led to being offered delicious Arabic coffee. Even more delightful was the shortcut that one of the young men of the family showed. A short trail through the hills and the other side of the town sprang into view with a suddenness that felt like we’d chanted Open Sesame. Just like in a tale of Arabian Nights!