ITCHY FEET TRAVELS

Etosha National Park, Namibia

June 11, 2024

Back at Windhoek Angie left for Tanzania and I headed up north to Etosha National Park. The gray ribbon of the highway cut through scrub and shrub dotted with termite mounds, looking like so many phallic symbols. Making good time on the good road I arrive at the Anderson Gate of Etosha.

There is a tall tower with a birds-eye view of the surrounds. The park has swanky resorts complete with swimming pools and restaurant to swish chalets to bush huts and campsites. I find my site and pitch my tent, the lone ground tent among a surfeit of safari vehicles with tents on the roof.

In most parks, it is usual to go search for animals in a game vehicle. But in a daring departure from the norm, Etosha has built watering holes, expecting animals to come to them and voila, one can see game without going on a game drive. I had chosen Okaukuejo site for the waterhole here which is one the few places that one can see white rhinos.

A couple of minutes walk from my site is the waterhole, fenced off with a row of benches facing the waterhole. Come afternoon and evening it is a packed gallery, bristling with telephoto lenses the size of small cannons.

No sooner do I sit down than I see a group of elephants come lumbering by! Wow, I think, this is amazing! They have a baby in tow and under the eagle eye of the matriarch, they take over the waterhole. All other animals move to a safe distance, awaiting their turn. There is a strict hierarchy here.

As they move off a pair of wildebeests belly up. As do springbok and a herd of zebras. There is a foal among the zebras, zealously guarded by the adults. They seem more skittish than the other animals and there is always one or more keeping watch while the rest drink.

The parade continues. Next come a herd of impalas and the regal looking oryx. One of the oryx has only one horn and I promptly name him Uno. Despite his one horn, Uno leads the way to the waterhole, pausing often to look very way for danger. A kudu walks up, cocking his head as well before stooping to drink.

Oh, by here comes something big. The dot on the horizon grows and it is a giant bull elephant! He has a broken left tusk. Tusker flaps his ears and with a measured gait comes up to the waterhole. All others beat a hasty retreat while Tusker drinks, splashes, pees and poops, taking his time.

All this within the first three hours? What am I going to see in the next couple of days, I wonder. I am not disappointed. The play unfolds each day with some variations. I am practically glued to the bench, testing out different ones for their viewpoints. There is a hush as we all whisper and watch in awe.

June 12, 2024

But this isn’t the only waterhole in the park and I drive out to Gemsbokvlakte the next day. I see some giraffes in the distance but closer at hand are a cluster of vehicles, a dead giveaway to animal sighting. I too pull up and look. Oh, oh, oh! It is a lion and lioness! I gawk, take photos and gawk again. The pair are not interested in any of us or anything else for that matter. They are deep into the mating dance and sit in post coital bliss ignoring everything else. A springbok knows this and is content to sit not far off. Alternately mating, gazing at each other and lying on the ground catching their breaths, the pair give the two-legged animals a grand couple of hours.

I drive on toward the Olifantsbad waterhole and have to myself it seems. Some zebras watch me as I watch them. And then comes an ostrich strutting by. As it walks and pecks on the ground, I see some oryx heading for the waterhole. A group of impala also come by, keeping a sharp lookout.

I am just leaving when I see the vehicle in front backing up in a hurry. What on earth? I don’t have to wonder long. A giant elephant has come out of the scrub and is walking down the road. The tourists in that vehicle must have had an up close and personal view. It is Tusker! I recognize him with his broken left tusk and the sway-back. All others scatter to safe distances as he takes over the waterhole.

June 13, 2024

Today I set off for Okondeka, one of the few natural waterholes in this park. A large herd of springboks are grazing unperturbed when I stop to take photos. This waterhole seems the province of ostriches – they march past in single file with the white of the Etosha pan glinting in the distance. I see something coming down the dirt road. It is small and trotting and soon I see a jackal. Of course! It is in search of ostrich eggs. It gives me a glance and trots off intent on finding his breakfast.

As I leave, a group of zebras cross the road. Both I and the oncoming car pause. Ha! Now that is a real zebra crossing!