ITCHY FEET TRAVELS

Zadar, Croatia

May 27, 2025

Sheltered from the open seas by the parallel lines of islands is the port of Zadar. An important port from the earliest times, it has seen the march of many peoples and plenty have left their marks. Vestiges of a Roman Forum from 2^nd century BCE still lie scattered to the west of the small peninsula that is the old town. Centered in the old town is the unusual circular church of St. Donatus built in the 9^th century CE. But inside are the remains of an altar dedicated to Juno and Jupiter harking back to earlier times. Cathedral of Saint Anastasia from the 12^th and 13^th centuries stands tall next to it.

Across from these is the Treasury of Saint Francis and nearby is yet another church of Our Lady of Health. There are churches around every corner it seems – church of Saint Simeon, church of Saint Nicholas, church of Saint Mary, church of Saint Dominic, church of Saint Demetrius, church of Saint Andrew and Saint Peter, church and monastery of Saint Michael the list seems endless. Does it mean that the people of Zadar were more pious than most? They are certainly picturesque but I am more than a little churched out.

The walls of the fortress still surround the old town punctuated by gateways. From the broad walkway atop the wall I have a view of the grid of streets below.

Stone-flagged for the most part, they form narrow lanes, these days lined mostly by cafes and restaurants. But a tell-tale line of laundry shows that not all buildings are converted to hotels or cafes or shops or restaurants.

And they are thronged. Tourists follow their guides, families with small children trundle strollers, the children themselves demand ice cream at the top of their lungs, waiters at the cafes call out hoping for diners. If not quite sardine-city, it comes close and taking photos without a lot of people is a lesson in patience. Café tables line both sides of the narrow streets and are packed more often than not.

Surrounding this tiny little peninsula is the Adriatic, a sparkling deep blue. In the landward side, boats bob in their harbor and the new town spreads to the east. To the west spray dashes over the unwary on windy days and boats streak past revving their motors. Family holiday destination mandates rides with names imaginatively culled from cartoons. A quirky sculpture is a sea organ built under the steps. Driven by the waves, the instrument produces sounds of varying frequencies and decibels. Although not quite a symphony, it is nonetheless quite pleasant. The crowds sitting on the steps above clearly agree. By the same artist is a vast array of solar panels that are charged during the day and glow in a multi-colored display at night.

I had decided to skip the tourist meccas of Split and Dubrovnik and had fondly imagined Zadar to be a bustling town, perhaps just a step or two above a small fishing village. I couldn’t have been more wrong!