Kaohsiung, Taiwan
Aug 15, 2026
Not visiting Lanyu means I have a few more days left to wander in Taiwan. I had not intended to visit the west coast on this trip but figured I might as well complete the loop back to Taipei. Kaohsiung is next on the itinerary for no other reason than the cover of my Rough Guide sported a pair of pagodas on the cover and these were in Kaohsiung.
In the north west of the city is a body of water called the Lotus Pond and the pagodas sit on the lake, reachable via a zigzag path from the shore. The path divides and the entry is through the gaping mouth of the Dragon Pagoda.
I follow the troop of visitors, a mere trickle on this gray drizzly day. Inside, there are steps going down and up, following the contours of the dragon’s body. The walls on either side are lavishly decorated with figures in bas relief. One side shows acts of piety and good deeds while the other shows the dire consequences if one does not follow the path of piety. A not-so-subtle prod! The work itself in painstaking in detail and garishly painted.
Up the spiral stairs to the fifth level gives me a view over the lake and neighborhood. There are more statues, pagodas and dragons around the lake. Larger than life and vibrantly painted, they loom over the water.
Down the stairs, I now enter the belly of the beast and climb up the stairs of the Tiger pagoda. Here too the walls are decorated but I do not enough to surmise the meanings. The exit is through the tiger’s maw. I vaguely remember that in Chinese philosophy, tiger signifies danger and one wants to walk away from it, signifying leaving the danger behind; hence the exit from its mouth. Just as in a temple one would enter via the Dragon gate and leave via the Tiger gate.
Kaohsiung is a bustling city and growing. Tall modern buildings along with untold number of malls line the streets, redeemed perhaps by a couple of quirky bits of architecture.
Pier 2 used to be a busy port but when that shut, the derelict warehouses were turned into an Art Center. Along a few blocks, these have been turned into boutiques rather than art displays. The tastefully refurbished spaces sell clothes, hats, bags, perfume, soaps – just about everything you could imagine. Well, it does have a couple of bits of art.
And then there is an entire boulevard of anime characters. For that matter, anime dominates cafes, gift stores, shops and billboards. Not being a fan, the less I say, the better!
On the other hand, the metro station called Formosa Boulevard has a huge installation called the Dome of Light. It is magnificent in detail and color – a cross between stained glass and sweeping art.
ITCHY FEET TRAVELS 