A City of Temples

Tainan, Taiwan

Aug 19, 2026

There are more temples in Tainan than in any other city in Taiwan. Sixteen hundred of them at last count, they come all sizes. Some are sandwiched between apartment buildings and businesses while others stand in isolated grandeur. At the Tiantan Tiangong temple, the Jade Emperor is worshipped using a sacred tablet. Built in 1661, the Zheng Chenggong temple is one of the oldest in Tainan. Just around the corner is the large Chongqing temple. There are old drums and bells in some that have been gathering dust for years and elaborate stone carvings and edicts on many walls. But in one temple I see the twisted straw cone; I remember seeing these in Kyoto.

The deities are not all the same. Some temples have multiple deities while in others, a single deity reigns in solitary splendor. There are worshippers aplenty. They enter on the right, pray, make some offerings and leave. Barring major ceremonies, it seems all very low key and very much a part of everyday life.

The Confucius temple is different in that it does not seem to serve as a temple anymore but is a museum of sorts. This is touted as the first school of learning in Taiwan and today houses a tiny museum of bells, drums and flutes that were once used during ceremonies.

As the oldest city in Taiwan, Tainan no doubt deserves a visit but my reason for visiting was really Simone. We had met in Chishang where she and her boyfriend were visiting for a few days. They are both from Tainan. What better than to stop in Tainan on my way up to Taipei? Simone introduced me to beef soup, a specialty at her favorite place in Anping and I spent a lovely evening with a group of their friends.

In Taiwan, I have met with not just friendliness, but an eagerness to help that is overwhelming. Random strangers on the street, in stores, on train platforms not only help, but rope in willing others if they can’t. It is the interaction with people that always makes or breaks a place for me. I leave in a day but know I will visit Taiwan again. After all, Lanyu still beckons!