For questions or information, please contact me via email: 4iftravels@gmail.com
Tashkent, Uzbekistan July 14, 2019 I visited Uzbekistan in 2015 but this time around it feels like a whole new country. Gone are the rigid rules for declaring everything at entry. I remember the anxiety of exiting Uzbekistan but all that is a thing of the past. Gone is the thriving black market, which was … More In a Whole New Country
Tashkent, Uzbekistan July 12, 2019 My original hare-brained scheme had been to cross from Afghanistan to Turkmenistan by land but the finicky Turkmenistan visa proved elusive. I figured Herat would be the place to do some fact-finding and had even found someone who lived in Torghundi. Yes, the border is open for Afghans and Turkmens … More Infamous Transit Visa
Kabul, Afghanistan July 11, 2019 Thanks to the lack of security, travel in Afghanistan has been frustrating. I could not traipse around in my usual fashion and had to avail myself of a guide and transport in certain areas. Being violently allergic to tours, this was no easy feat for me. Kabul was one of … More Hope for a New Future
Afghanistan, July 10, 2019 A portrait gallery – where older women usually flatly refused, older men acquiesced and younger people were happy to pose, as were the children.
Samangan, Afghanistan July 8, 2019 Some hundred kilometers southeast of Mazar-i-Sharif is the provincial town of Samangan. A nondescript town now, but it was once a flourishing Buddhist center with a monastery and an unusual stupa built in the Kushan period of 4th to 5th centuries. Predictably, it was on my wish list to visit … More The Throne that is no Throne
Balkh, Afghanistan July 7, 2019 Green Mosque The Green mosque, colloquially called Haji Parsa is supposedly one of its highlights, but it is a battered sight. The damage suffered during the civil war shows in the jagged edges rearing against the sky. It was commissioned in the 15th century by Queen Gowhar Shad, wife of … More Famed Mosques of Balkh
Balkh, Afghanistan July 6, 2019 On the plains between the western edge of the Hindu Kush and northern shores of Amy Darya or Oxus, is a plain that was once the kingdom of Bactria. Looking at the scruffy, rough-at-the-edges areas of Balkh, you would hardly think this was once a grand city and the capital … More In the Kingdom of Bactria
Mazar-i-Sharif, Afghanistan July 5, 2019 The crown jewel of Mazar-i-Sharif is the famous Blue mosque. The four gates lead into the vast inner courtyard, dwarfing the people walking, sitting, chatting on the marbled floor. Thanks to shrines added onto it over time, it does not have the rigid symmetry of Islamic architecture and is perhaps … More Blue Mosque of Mazar
Bamiyan, Afghanistan July 4, 2019 Entering Bamiyan from the east, a small hillock is visible close to the center of town. This, all locals will tell you this is the Shahr-i-Ghoulghoula which translates as the City of Screams. Their eyes light up as they tell you the ghoulish tale. Some add pregnant pauses and dramatic … More City of Screams
Bamiyan, Afghanistan July 4, 2019 This entire valley has caves dug out of the mountain ridges, some excavated, many not. Many have housed families since ancient times and some still do. What a grand place to feed my penchant for poking around in old ruins. I was in conversation with a local, droning on about … More In Search of Unknown Treasures
ITCHY FEET TRAVELS 