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Silves, Portugal Jan 11, 2018 In the south of Portugal, on the bank of the Arade river, Silves sits nestled among groves of orange trees. Its heydays when it was the capital of the Algarve in the Moorish times, are long gone. Today, the red stone castle looks out on its narrow, winding streets, locals … More Somnolent Silves
Lisbon, Portugal January 9, 2018 The mosaic pavements, slick storefronts, hum of traffic and rattle of streetcars may make Lisbon appear a modern European capital but it has roots that stretch far back. Arguably among the oldest cities of Europe, second only to Athens, this city has its beginnings among the Celts. The spacious natural … More In a City called Olissipo
Berlin, Germany Jan 4, 2018 The rain that had meant soggy days in Porto followed me dutifully and I was treated to more of the same for the entire week in Berlin. But this side trip to Berlin was mostly to visit friends that I haven’t seen in a while so it hardly mattered. In … More A Week in Berlin
Porto, Portugal Dec 26, 2017 A decade or so ago, if you strolled around Porto, you would be greeted by abandoned buildings, shabby run-down areas and unsavory characters peddling drugs more often than not. But decades of neglect is forgotten as Porto explodes into the tourism scene. It is a city in a frenzy of … More By the People & Of the People
Batu Sankar, West Sumatra August 19, 2017 Throughout the month of August, every Saturday, there are races held in the muddy fields near the town of Batu Sankar. But the locations vary, and are decided on the eve of the race. The only way to find out is to ask locally and that is just … More A Day at the Races
Mentawai August 15, 2017 “Come” said Baja Toycot. “We go to cure a sick man. You come”. The day had dawned gray and cloudy and it had been spattering rain most of the morning, with occasional downpours. Even the chickens seemed to have gone to ground. But the mood perked up around mid-morning. Two other … More Rites, Rituals & a Pig Sacrifice
Muntei, Siberut Island, Mentawai August 12, 2017 Tales of hunter-gatherers living in the middle of the jungle in an island off Sumatra had been playing through my mind as I traveled south and I wanted to go see these people. The Mentawai are a chain of islands, some with rudimentary development and some that are … More In the House of a Shaman
Pagaruyung village, West Sumatra August 8, 2017 On a hill called Gombok, in West Sumatra, were found some statues and several large stones with inscriptions carved on them. Dating from 1347, they can hardly be called ancient, yet these are the first written records in this area. Written in Pali script, they speak of Adityawarma, … More Where Women Lead
Samosir Island, Danau Toba, North Sumatra August 5, 2017 “Our people came by sea” said the old man, nodding sagely. “Exactly from where, nobody knows but they came in boats, and so we build our houses like boats” he added, between puffs on his cigarette, his face wreathed in a gap-toothed smile. In a small … More Our People Came by Sea
Lingga, Sumatra, Indonesia Aug 1, 2017 The small villages dotting the highlands around the town of Berastagi in northern Sumatra, have been home to the Karonese people through the ages and still are. Word is, some old traditions are still alive in some of them. A minibus ride got me easily to a village called … More Tales from Karo Highlands
ITCHY FEET TRAVELS 