Goroka, Papua New Guinea
Sept 18, 2026
Goroka, the largest town and the capital of Eastern Highlands is teeming with people. They have come from all provinces of Papua New Guinea for the annual Goroka Show. The streets, markets, grassy spaces and parks are all crowded and the sense of excitement is palpable.
Goroka is safe enough to walk around during the day I am told, if I keep a low profile and a firm hold on common sense. But all guests are told to return before dark to the guesthouse behind its tall fence and security guard. My nape hairs lie dormant and my gut quiescent for the most part but there are parts of the town where I wouldn’t want to loiter after dark anyway. Even in broad daylight, I walk past briskly.
Mostly though I feel the sense of exuberance that laces the air. Cheerful greetings and smiles are the norm as people pose happily. Everyone is dressed in the bold reds and yellows with a dash of black – the colors of Papua New Guinea national flag. Flags flutter from lamp posts, balconies and are strung across every building. Smaller ones wave from where they are stuck in their hair or hat or bag.
Wearing face paint is the norm it seems, both children and adults alike. It is very much a part of this celebration but this practice is rooted in far older traditions of ancestral heritage and clan identity. The face painters have set up shops all along the side of the road and have no shortage of customers. Posters show the available options, but this is not just random art. The painting reflects the province the person is from. Sometimes they sport the province’s flag, sometimes it is an artist’s innovation using the colors of the flag.
The vivid colors, patterns and details make them beautiful works of art. Most amazing is the sheer variety! I gawk, take photos and gawk again. This is the face of Papua New Guinea.
