One Step Ahead of the Taliban

Leaving Afghanistan July 28, 2015 It was the news report I watched while at one house in Qala-i-Panja that first made me aware of the current situation in Afghanistan, fairly close to where we were. The television this family had was powdered by a solar panel. With no electricity, no internet, no wifi, no newspapers … More One Step Ahead of the Taliban

In Afghanistan

Sultan Eshkashim July 24, 2015 I am in Afghanistan! Duly stamped out by a bored young guard on the Tajik side, we walked over to the Afghan side. A grizzled veteran bid us welcome and asked us to put our packs down. The men were given a short lecture about their lack of chivalry in … More In Afghanistan

I Need A Man

Khorog July 20, 2015 I have been dithering about going to Afghanistan all along this trip. Talking to other travelers, some days I am convinced that I should go and other days I think it is not the best idea. Most uncharacteristic of me, but now that I am in Khorog, I have decided to … More I Need A Man

In Search Of Sogdiana

Khojand July 11, 2015 A long, long time ago there flourished an ancient civilization called Mesopotamia. It is so called because it lay between two rivers – meso (middle) and potamia (waters). Further east from them are two other rivers that also nurtured an ancient kingdom. A kingdom so powerful that  it controlled virtually all … More In Search Of Sogdiana

So This is Tajikistan

From Batken (Kyrgyzstan) to Khojand (Tajikistan) July 10, 2015 The marshrutka crossing the border was a museum-worthy minivan that can likely recall tales of the last world war if machines could talk. But peeling upholstery held together with duct tape and door handles tied with bits of twisted wire notwithstanding, it was packed. Most were … More So This is Tajikistan

Son Kul

Son Kul Lake 3025  m June 29, 2015 Rumor  has it that there is a lake in central Kyrgyzstan that surpasses all in beauty and grandeur. Its name is Son Kul and  the gateway to this lake is from a town called Kochkor. There is no public  transport and I needed to  find  other tourists … More Son Kul