Auld Lang Syne

Dogubayazit, Turkey Aug 17, 2018 Five years ago, when I was traveling through south-eastern Anatolia, I had stopped in Dogubayazit, the last town in eastern Turkey. In the few days spent there, I had stayed in a hostel called Otel Tahran. It was owned by Bilal and it was his friend Mustafa, who had shown … More Auld Lang Syne

The Ghost of Ani

Kars, Turkey Aug 15, 2018 On a wind-swept plateau bounded by the deep gorge of the Akhurian river on one side, is the site of Ani. Begun in 961 AD, it flourished between the 10th and 11th century as the capital of the Bagratid kingdom of Armenia. Its position on lucrative trade routes ensured that … More The Ghost of Ani

Skippable Sevan

Dilijan, Armenia Aug 4, 2018 “What are you writing?” he asked, not that I understood the words, but miming leaves little room for misunderstanding. “About Armenia” I answered, “and where to go next” I mimed in reply. “What about Sevan?” he asked. So started our stuttering conversation at the little café where I sat scribbling … More Skippable Sevan