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Kerbala, Iraq May 30, 2023 The name of the city is odd mix of the Babylonian word for a prayer room – kerb and Aramaic for God – El, thus Kerbala is God’s prayer room. Being the home of the shrine of Imam Hussain, it is one of the two major sites for Shia pilgrims … More Temple of God
Samarra, Iraq May 29,2023 The name Samarra immediately brings to mind an ancient Mesopotamian tale that was retold by W. Somerset Maugham. The tale goes: There was a merchant in Baghdad who sent his servant to the market. The servant came back trembling with fear because he said he had bumped into Death at … More Appointment in Samarra
Baghdad, Iraq May 28, 2023 The Shahbandar Café at a corner of Mutanaby street has been the Baghdad’s intellectual hub for a century and it remains a much loved and frequented café. Traditional cushioned benches have tiny tables in front for the tulip-shaped glasses of tea. The walls are lined with photographs, each more … More Baghdad of Yore
Baghdad, Iraq May 27, 2023 Al Rasheed street is the oldest street in Baghdad. In between modern concrete and glass are older buildings in a sad state of disrepair but they have a grace that the modern ones lack. I field hellos and “welcome to Iraq” as I walk along, heading toward the markets. In … More The Streets of Baghdad
Baghdad, Iraq May 25, 2023 Arrival in Baghdad was strangely anticlimactic. I knew about the visa on arrival but had expected to be asked for several documents but apparently none were needed. A single form, in English no less, was duly filed out. It disappeared into the back room with the passport and not half … More In the Land Between Two Rivers
New York May 24, 2023 Given my abiding passion for ancient civilizations, it is no surprise that I long wanted to visit the ruins of Mesopotamia. And that means Iraq for the most part. For many years it is a strictly no-go region and it is only fairly recently that it has opened up … More Dream of a Lifetime
Athens, Greece Jan 18,2023 Of course no visit to this ancient city would be quite complete without my usual lengthy tour of the Archeological museum. I dutifully spend the better part of a day doing just that. In the pride of place, at the entrance were the grave goods that all the grave robbers … More Riches of the Mycenaeans
Athens, Greece Jan 15, 2023 It has been some thirty years since I was last in Athens and the city has changed enough that this is no case of Déjà vu. It all feels new. I have memories of the Acropolis but even that seems new with plenty of restoration in progress, new museums and … More In Athens Again
Athens, Greece Jan 13, 2023 “Come back in summer” said the man at the bus station in Iraklion. “Not many buses now”. The info on accommodation was even worse. Apparently almost all the south and large parts of the east closes its shutters and hibernates until summer makes its appearance. I had planned to see … More Bailing Out
Iraklion, Crete Jan 11, 2023 All ancient civilizations without exception, had a mother goddess they worshipped. She was the supreme deity and sometimes the only deity. Unsurprisingly perhaps, women in these societies were not only revered, but frequently held superior positions in society. Cleopatra and Hatsepshut of Egypt are well known but their reign came … More When Women Ruled
ITCHY FEET TRAVELS 