Kurdish Kindness

Eastern Turkey June 2013 It started with my arrival in Sanliurfa, a city in south-eastern Anatolia, I had wandered into a shop in search of a travelling alarm clock and the owner of the shop was keen to speak in English. He bemoaned the fact that he rarely got to practice his English. Not only … More Kurdish Kindness

Stairway to Heaven

Axum, Ethiopia January 9, 2013 A couple of kilometers to the north of Axum lies another ancient site. The lane leading up to the site is predictably lined with small stalls selling the usual tourist kitsch. Small boys tag along next to me clutching small replicas of the stelae hoping for a sale. Long before … More Stairway to Heaven

The Queen of Sheba

Axum, Ethiopia January 8, 2013  King Solomon has heard of the Queen of Sheba and her great kingdom and she in turn has heard of him. So she travels to his court along with a large retinue carrying gifts of frankincense, myrrh and gold. The Queen tests Solomon’s wisdom, asking him many questions and giving … More The Queen of Sheba

Stranded!

December 26, 2010 Terminal 2/3 JFK Airport, NY There had been repeated warnings of a big winter storm headed our way but I took this with a veritable mountain of salt, given that the online as well as TV weather forecasters have a penchant for dire forebodings. Forecasts that are delivered with a generous splash … More Stranded!

Among the Tsaatan

Among the Tsaatan I had been to Mongolia twice before, but this time my focus was the extreme north, past the Khovsgol Nur. This is the summer pasture of the reindeer herders of Mongolia – the Tsaatan. I traveled from Ulan Bator to the town of Moron and then began the search for the Tsaatan. … More Among the Tsaatan