Give Me Money

Malawi July, 2016 “Madam, give me four thousand kwacha” began the first conversation I had on entering Malawi. I had just got stamped out of Zambia and crossed the dirt patch where a lone truck, some cycles dangerously overloaded and some cars were waiting to go the other way. I was waiting for the shared … More Give Me Money

At Cape MacLear

Cape MacLear, Malawi July 10, 2016 Cape Maclear, on the tip of the peninsula near the southern end of Lake Malawi boasts long stretches of pebbly sand. There is the shushing sound of waves lapping at the shore. Children play on the beach building sand castles and drop off anchored boats into the water. They … More At Cape MacLear

Landlubber Alert

Nkhata Bay, Malawi July 4, 2016 The landlubber that I am, of course none of this interests me. Swimming is not one of the skills I possess. But there is something here that I want to do. I want to go with one of the fishermen on their boat. I see them out on the … More Landlubber Alert

On an Indigo Bay

Nkhata Bay, Malawi July 1, 2016 In the northern part of Malawi, hugging the shores of Lake Malawi is a small village called Nkhata Bay. Originally a small fishing village, it still retains in a large measure, a quaint rural charm. Despite the few cement buildings and aspirations toward a township, the pace of life … More On an Indigo Bay

In a Mud Hut

Mukuni Village, Zambia June 18, 2016 I had reached Livingstone, a tourist mecca of sorts – at least by southern African standards. Predictably none of the standard tours interested me. Instead I wanted to go stay in a traditional village – the sort I had been seeing from the bus windows. Asking at travel agencies … More In a Mud Hut

These Gentle Giants

Chobe National Park, Botswana, June 12, 2016 They are in the trees, in the marshes, at the waterfront and in the bush. There are animals and birds and reptiles and predators everywhere it seems. Large and small, winged and four-legged, with tails and without, equipped with horns or not, with or without claws, they are … More These Gentle Giants

Botswana at Random

Chobe National Park Botswana June 8, 2016 My plans for travel are loose at best but this time around I seem to have surpassed myself. Travels through Zimbabwe had been completely at random, on the advice of locals I met along the way but now, I thought I would make some rudimentary itinerary for the … More Botswana at Random