City of Screams

Bamiyan, Afghanistan July 4, 2019 Entering Bamiyan from the east, a small hillock is visible close to the center of town. This, all locals will tell you this is the Shahr-i-Ghoulghoula which translates as the City of Screams. Their eyes light up as they tell you the ghoulish tale. Some add pregnant pauses and dramatic … More City of Screams

Incognito in a Burqa

On the road from Kabul to Bamiyan Afghanistan July 1, 2019 Before arriving in the country, I had read that road travel in Afghanistan is to be avoided. Many roads are within Taliban-held territory and road blocks are a common tactic to kidnapping foreigners. Nor are foreigners the only targets; well-known or affluent Afghanis are … More Incognito in a Burqa