Peshawar, Pakistan June 22, 2019 Close to the border with Afghanistan, the city of Peshawar has had a checkered history in its long life. And it shows. The old clock tower and the fire brigade station date from the British days but there are plenty that are yet older. The sprawling quadrangle that was once … More Where the Extraordinary is the Norm
Takht-i-Bahi June 18, 2019 Insatiably addicted to ancient archeological sites that I am, the ruins of Takht-i-Bahi was on the dream list. In chatting with another traveler at the guesthouse in Islamabad, I found Hannes too was headed there and had been invited by a friend to stay with his family. A couple of quick … More Pathan Hospitality
Taxila, Paksitan June 16, 2019 Like other places in this ancient land, Taxila has been mentioned from the earliest of times in Vedic texts of 7th century BC and Panini’s grammar treatise of the 5th century BC. The epic Ramayana describes Takshashila as a magnificent city founded by Bharat, the younger brother of Rama. He … More Taksha Shila, City of Stone
Swat, Pakistan June 14, 2019 At the crossroads between what is now Central Asia and India, Gandhara has been populated since 1500 BC. It has seen many an empire come and go, each leaving behind traces of themselves reflected in the art and writings, culture and languages, monuments and relics. For fans of ancient history, … More The Magic of Gandhara
Lahore, Pakistan June 11, 2019 Lucky enough to pass for a local, I have been polishing my Urdu everywhere I go. All whom I meet are unmercifully treated to an onslaught but instead of taking umbrage, they cheerfully subject themselves to conversations that continue over cups of tea or a soft drink. More often than … More Mission Positive Pakistan
Lahore, Pakistan June 8, 2019 Lahore may have a glittering new face full of glitzy shops, malls and restaurants but it is the old walled city that draws me. Once bounded by walls and guarded by twelve imposing gates, this was all of Lahore. Now, only six of the twelve gates survive but within the … More Hidden Face of Lahore
Lahore, Pakistan June 6, 2019 “Whoever hasn’t seen Lahore has not lived” – so goes an old saying. And it seems to be true. The vibrancy of modern life is interwoven with shades from the past in a seamless tapestry that is Lahore. A city that was supposedly founded by Lava, the son of Rama, … More Shades of Past Glories
Sukkur, Pakistan June 4, 2019 The police escort continued to dog me even as I was leaving Larkana. Perched on the back of a police motorbike, I was taken to the van. The policeman dutifully took photos of the driver, the license plate and the license. The van may have seen better days but like … More Under the Radar
Larkana, Pakistan June 2, 2019 As a schoolgirl, I remember studying about the Indus Valley Civilization and of Mohenjo Daro in particular, which is Sindhi for Mound of the Dead. I remember seeing photographs of the bearded priest-king, of the many seals that were found at the site, the terracotta toys of bullock carts. Utterly … More Mound of the Dead
Larkana, Pakistan Jun 1, 2019 It is 48 C in the shade but the bazar is teeming with people. Rush hour comprises mostly of trucks, donkey carts and two-wheelers, a handful of cars and a river of people. A lone camel is led through the streets with two children perched on the trailer. The hotel … More Eclectic Bazar of Larkana
ITCHY FEET TRAVELS 