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Mlilwane National Park, Swaziland August 12, 2016 ‘Where you camp surrounded by roaming game’ is how the brochure for Mlilwane National Park reads. It is scenic enough and idyllic in the sense that it is a quiet retreat with a pace that is even slower than the usual slow paced life in Swaziland. An excellent … More A Park by Any Other Name
Nkomanzi Village, Swaziland August 9, 2016 “There are some others in the village but they are not proper ones” said the old man. “They have not studied but have just set up a business” he said. “People go to them for doing bad things. I don’t do that; if I use my power for bad … More The Bones Tell Me All I Need
Nkomanzi Village, Swaziland August 8, 2016 The sun had set and the sky was a bluish-gray with clouds rolling in. At the tail end of twilight, we got on a combi headed to Mbabane. By the time we got there it was completely dark and under the streetlights in the chaotic bus station the touts … More A Village in the Hills
Ezulwini Valley, Swaziland August 6, 2016 The center of town in Mbabane is chock-a-block with modern glass and chrome buildings, shopping malls and KFC featuring prominently. Yet a bare five minutes on the road I see sheep grazing on the hillsides next to small huts, their tin roofs held down with piles of bricks and … More A Land of Bizarre Contrasts
Oshoek Border Post, Swaziland August 3, 2016 I was in a minibus heading to Manzini in Swaziland. The others on the bus were all from Swaziland, but working in Johannesburg and heading home on a two-day holiday. Most were traders who buy goods in Johannesburg and sell them in Swaziland. The woman next to me … More Swazi Style
Valley of a Thousand Hills, South Africa July 30, 2016 He saw her on her way to the river to collect water and has decided that she is the one. Being eloquent, he has convinced her to marry him. The wooing was spirited, indeed more haranguing than whispering sweet nothings it seemed. But he prevailed … More Eleven Cows and Not One Less
Durban, South Africa July 29, 2016 “If your husband likes another woman” she said, “You use this mixture here. You must stir it in boiling water, but mind, you must stir with a sharp knife. You must keep repeating the words as you stir. Continue doing it for two months and he will come back … More If Your Husband Likes Another Woman
Northern Drakensburg Mountains Bergville, South Africa July 23, 2016 I had a hankering to see Lesotho and thought I had come up with a grand plan. Having no interest in Maseru or other big towns, I wanted to get to the rural villages in the mountains. Traveller lore has it that in the northern Drakensburg … More The Best Laid Plans of Mice & Men
Malawi July, 2016 “Madam, give me four thousand kwacha” began the first conversation I had on entering Malawi. I had just got stamped out of Zambia and crossed the dirt patch where a lone truck, some cycles dangerously overloaded and some cars were waiting to go the other way. I was waiting for the shared … More Give Me Money
Cape MacLear, Malawi July 10, 2016 Cape Maclear, on the tip of the peninsula near the southern end of Lake Malawi boasts long stretches of pebbly sand. There is the shushing sound of waves lapping at the shore. Children play on the beach building sand castles and drop off anchored boats into the water. They … More At Cape MacLear
ITCHY FEET TRAVELS 