Hope for a New Future

Kabul, Afghanistan July 11, 2019 Thanks to the lack of security, travel in Afghanistan has been frustrating. I could not traipse around in my usual fashion and had to avail myself of a guide and transport in certain areas. Being violently allergic to tours, this was no easy feat for me. Kabul was one of … More Hope for a New Future

Blue Mosque of Mazar

Mazar-i-Sharif, Afghanistan July 5, 2019 The crown jewel of Mazar-i-Sharif is the famous Blue mosque. The four gates lead into the vast inner courtyard, dwarfing the people walking, sitting, chatting on the marbled floor. Thanks to shrines added onto it over time, it does not have the rigid symmetry of Islamic architecture and is perhaps … More Blue Mosque of Mazar

City of Screams

Bamiyan, Afghanistan July 4, 2019 Entering Bamiyan from the east, a small hillock is visible close to the center of town. This, all locals will tell you this is the Shahr-i-Ghoulghoula which translates as the City of Screams. Their eyes light up as they tell you the ghoulish tale. Some add pregnant pauses and dramatic … More City of Screams

Lakes of Band-i-Ameer

Bamiyan, Afghanistan July 3, 2019 Leaving the town of Bamiyan, the road goes west toward Band-i-Ameer. Asphalted for the most part and a dirt track for the rest, we drive past small villages, past the occasional fort-like old buildings. As little as a couple of generations, people still lived in these buildings. Plots of land … More Lakes of Band-i-Ameer

Incognito in a Burqa

On the road from Kabul to Bamiyan Afghanistan July 1, 2019 Before arriving in the country, I had read that road travel in Afghanistan is to be avoided. Many roads are within Taliban-held territory and road blocks are a common tactic to kidnapping foreigners. Nor are foreigners the only targets; well-known or affluent Afghanis are … More Incognito in a Burqa