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Bamiyan, Afghanistan July 3, 2019 Leaving the town of Bamiyan, the road goes west toward Band-i-Ameer. Asphalted for the most part and a dirt track for the rest, we drive past small villages, past the occasional fort-like old buildings. As little as a couple of generations, people still lived in these buildings. Plots of land … More Lakes of Band-i-Ameer
Bamiyan, Afghanistan July 2, 2019 The long ridge is visible just about from almost everywhere in town. Pockmarked with caves, it is famous for once having housed the largest standing Buddha statues in the world. But they are no more. In 2001 when the Taliban occupied this district, they tried using rifles and artillery shells … More The Buddhas of Bamiyan
On the road from Kabul to Bamiyan Afghanistan July 1, 2019 Before arriving in the country, I had read that road travel in Afghanistan is to be avoided. Many roads are within Taliban-held territory and road blocks are a common tactic to kidnapping foreigners. Nor are foreigners the only targets; well-known or affluent Afghanis are … More Incognito in a Burqa
Herat, Afghanistan June 28, 2019 Persepolis in Shiraz has detailed carved reliefs of the peoples of Herat in stylized Scythian dress. I remember them well. They are also found carved on the tombs of Naqsh-e-Rustam and in the inscription of Darius. Herat may well have a history that goes back further but by the time … More A Glimpse of Herat
Kabul, Afghanistan June 27, 2019 The snow-capped peaks of the Hindu Kush lay below as the plane flew in from Islamabad. I was glued to the window as we crossed into Afghanistan. This is a mountainous country, with soaring peaks. It is a harsh land and arid except for the patches of green that follow … More In a State of Shock
Peshawar, Pakistan June 22, 2019 Close to the border with Afghanistan, the city of Peshawar has had a checkered history in its long life. And it shows. The old clock tower and the fire brigade station date from the British days but there are plenty that are yet older. The sprawling quadrangle that was once … More Where the Extraordinary is the Norm
Takht-i-Bahi June 18, 2019 Insatiably addicted to ancient archeological sites that I am, the ruins of Takht-i-Bahi was on the dream list. In chatting with another traveler at the guesthouse in Islamabad, I found Hannes too was headed there and had been invited by a friend to stay with his family. A couple of quick … More Pathan Hospitality
Taxila, Paksitan June 16, 2019 Like other places in this ancient land, Taxila has been mentioned from the earliest of times in Vedic texts of 7th century BC and Panini’s grammar treatise of the 5th century BC. The epic Ramayana describes Takshashila as a magnificent city founded by Bharat, the younger brother of Rama. He … More Taksha Shila, City of Stone
Swat, Pakistan June 14, 2019 At the crossroads between what is now Central Asia and India, Gandhara has been populated since 1500 BC. It has seen many an empire come and go, each leaving behind traces of themselves reflected in the art and writings, culture and languages, monuments and relics. For fans of ancient history, … More The Magic of Gandhara
Lahore, Pakistan June 11, 2019 Lucky enough to pass for a local, I have been polishing my Urdu everywhere I go. All whom I meet are unmercifully treated to an onslaught but instead of taking umbrage, they cheerfully subject themselves to conversations that continue over cups of tea or a soft drink. More often than … More Mission Positive Pakistan
ITCHY FEET TRAVELS 